BADWATER 2003
FACT AND FANTASY
PART I
PRE RACE MEETING
“What the Hell Am I Doing Here?”
Part I is an excerpt from my talk at the pre race
meeting at the DVNP Visitors Center where the Badwater 2003
Ultramarathon participants assembled. In all, 73 invitees were there
along with their crewmembers, pacers, and family members. The 300 seats
in the auditorium were completely filled. We were all stuck there for
about five to six hours. Our rooms would not be available until 1600.
Registration was between 1200 and 1400 and the meeting started at 1500.
The air conditioning was not on and the inner surfaces of the concrete
block walls were very hot. The tension was building up as is usual at a
time like this.
Chris Kostman made a brief announcement. Then he
introduced my wife, Denise, the First Lady of Badwater and the
“Blister Queen” and me. I neglected to properly recognize her when
the microphone was turned over to me. I would like to do so now and
thank her for being my wife and for all of her marvelous efforts
regarding Badwater. I thanked him and Deb Caplan and his staff for their
monumental efforts at putting on this event.
There were 52 participants at the Memorial weekend
heat training clinic and 40 at the July 4th clinic. Of
these, 23 were invitees. These stories and digital photos are on the
website.
We all appreciated meeting Jay Birmingham
and hearing about his solo crossing in 1981 and he was available to
autograph his book, “The Longest Hill.” Major Maples was
back from the world’s largest kitty litter box, Iraq, to do from
Baghdad to Badwater. Many other famous people, too numerous to
mention, were in the room and I hope they will provide stories of their
experiences later. I mentioned that I was proud to be in the midst of
these athletes. We always enjoy the annual pilgrimage to Death Valley
renewing old acquaintances and meeting new friends. We regard all of
these people as our family and they are our friends for life. Chris
Moon advises, “One can find one’s soul out here and get close to
God.” I advised everyone heed these words and to notice the pretty
colors of the mountains and startling night sky.
I started off by remarking, “What the Hell Am I
doing here?” I queried among the audience if any of them wondered
the same and if they felt they had made a mistake. I believe I got some
positive responses.
To avoid getting into trouble, I advised
everyone to not believe anything I was to say in the next few minutes.
My speechwriters in D.C. advised that I not mention anything about the
sixteen-word sentence having to do with the purchase of uranium by Iraq
from a small country in Africa, so I decided to leave it out.
A: ELECTION OF MAYOR
I sensed that everyone was anxious to know about
the election of Mayor of Badwater last November. The news had not
yet trickled down. It was a very close election. Terrorism was my
first priority. At the polling booth I cast my usual vote for myself.
While I was there I noticed two dark-skinned men with turbans on
their heads. They were speaking Pashtun and had no idea that I
could understand them. Pashtun was my second language as I was growing
up in Southern California. (I chuckled that I was also fluent in
Aramaic, hieroglyphics, cuneiform and Sanskrit). They were talking about
their agenda. They planned to do a write-in vote for Ramzi bin al
Shieb (more on him later). They planned to start a “day care
center” down by Ashford Mill and Mormon Point. Then they began
mentioning words such as “guerilla warfare, Kalashnikov, rocket
propelled grenades, and al-Qaeda.” Next they bragged about stealing a
large mill from Pillsbury Products to be able to start a “milk
factory.” Then they talked about weaponizing the material and using
spores. Finally, they bragged about setting up a “flight school”
at the Furnace Creek airport and had ordered a flight simulator to
practice landings. They were already practicing with crop dusters over
at the Harmony Borax Works. As it turned out, Ramzi bin al Shieb had
just been captured and was in detention at an undisclosed location but
probably at Guantanamo Bay, Cuba. He was the mastermind of the World
Trade Center 9-11 disaster. The two other voters were
undocumented and had false voters registration cards, driver’s
licenses, and social security disability cards provided somehow by the
CIA. They had fled to the Barker Ranch in the Panamint Range, which was
Charlie Manson’s former hideout. I called Bev at the Inyo County Clerk’s
Office and asked for a recount such as was done in the past in Dade
County, Florida. It turned out that the ballots were dimpled and
had hanging chads and were discounted. So I won the election 1-0
instead of losing 1-2. I am really glad we didn’t have to involve the
Supreme Court Justices this time.
The above covers the antiterrorism part of
my campaign. The second issue was that of vandalism. A report was
filed about some misspelled graffiti in my office at Badwater. My
office also serves as the men’s room, which is the building on the right
as you face south. I went into my office and noticed the commode on the
left and my lectern on the right. Above my desk on the far wall were the
letters: p-e-n-u-s. I dashed up to the Park Superintendent’s office and
he was already aware of the problem. He said he would take care of it
and promised that the whole area would be renovated. The sea level
sign was missing and would be replaced high up on the cliff. Recent
paving had obliterated the start-line. I began to think that an
official start of the Race could not be held and we were going to have
one of those asterisk (*) years. There was not time to wheel the course
in reverse from the Portals to Badwater.
The third issue was that of pollution. Many
tourists complained to the Rangers about the foul odors wafting up from
the pit in my office. I took care of the problem myself by breaking up
the muck down there and dumping in a bunch of lye. The stench now is no
worse than from the brine ponds, I am happy to announce.
B: FULL
DISCLOSURE
Don’t believe any of this either. At this
point I felt it only fair to outline in full disclosure my
race strategy. I knew that it would not be a “slam dunk/shock and
awe” performance but more like a long, dragged out affair such as
the Scott Peterson trial in Modesto.
The first three strategic steps were taken from the
movie, “What About Bob” with Richard Dreyfus and Bill Murray. I
would take “baby steps” in order to achieve micro goals. I would
go from one crack in the road to the next; I would go from one reflector
to the next; I would go from one mile-post-marker to the next. The miles
would pile up behind me and I wouldn’t worry about what was ahead. I
would “take a vacation from my problems” and get away from
managed care, compliancy issues, poor reimbursement, and computer
crashes, fax machines and patients who only wanted vicodin, xanax, soma,
and phenteramine. Next I would need to figure out all of the necessary
ways during the Race to stay alive and this is where “death therapy”
comes in as a very important consideration to avoid death.
The “Revenge of the Nerds” provided the idea
for an important item as I had discovered that a part of me is
nerd-like. I would be using a Louis Skolnik Pocket Protector for
my gadgets but mostly for the rectal thermometer.
In order not to get lost at the Scotty’s Castle
turnoff I would take the advice of Yogi Berra indicating, “if
you come to a fork in the road, take it.”
I had been intensely following the Tour de France
and noticed that the great bikers wore a coveted yellow jersey. I
had a yellow t-shirt given to me from the Comrades Marathon and was
prepared to use it. Then I saw Nancy Shura with all of her hone bees. At
the last minute I decided to use my bright green and yellow John
Deere tractor suspenders to hold up my sun protection pants.
My drink of choice was to be the blue (glacier
ice) Gatorade similar in color to the toilet bowl cleaner seen on
the shelves in the markets. It tastes a lot better and has more balanced
of electrolytes.
Not to take unfair advantage of my competitors, I
announced that I would be doing only nose breathing. I would take
four paces forward while inhaling only through my nose and then four
paces forward while exhaling only through my nose. My nasal passages
would act as a governor in order not to go too fast plus I would
not lose as much fluid in the form of moisture loss.
I brought my inline skates and a parasail
to deploy when there were tail winds and a street luge to use on
the downhill side of Towne Pass. There was nothing in the rules to
discourage using these devises. I cancelled my sky surfing drop-in at
the Race start area. Unfortunately, I didn’t have a lot of talent or
time to practice using these things.
I really felt that I needed a boost going up
the hills such as like turning on the afterburner for jet
assistance. Recently I became acquainted with the Badwater
Ultramarathon’s new sponsor. I tapped into keihls.com and went
over their apothecary and herbal products and requested free
samples of the garlic suppositories. I planned on doing
insertions every three miles going up Towne Pass and in moments of
thoughtfulness I wanted to make sure everyone had passed me by then
The Lone Pine branch of AARP would be
delivering meals-on-wheels to undisclosed locations on the
course. I pleaded with the runners to at least leave the brussel sprouts
for me.
When and if I got to Keeler I would not be sending
my crew to Lone Pine for clam chowder as Nick Palazzo did
in “Running On The Sun” in 1999. I didn’t want to say, “I
don’t want to ask where youz went.”
This idea came from Major League Baseball after
Sammy Sosa broke his corked bat. There was nothing in the rules of the
race that I couldn’t use corked orthotics. I sent mine in to Russ
Bollig to be drilled and corked. I wanted the runners, as they passed,
to notice how I was bouncing along as if on pogo sticks.
In the light of recent news from the Cordilliera
Spa in Vail, Colorado, I decided to cancel my membership
there and quit my sauna training. I was too high profile
for the place, had no bodyguards, and the chicks were too cute. My
speechwriters pleaded with me to not use the expression, “He planked her
in the linen closet,” so instead I used, “He performed a DNA
transfer.”
I was thinking of asking Chris Kostman to
discount the Portal Road as I had already been doing some
race management errands between Lone Pine and the Portals anyway.
From knowing Chris, I really knew I didn’t stand a chance on this
strategy although it would have been a time saver and was worth a try.
My last concern was the post race drug testing.
I have usually had no problem passing these tests for my overall placing
and age group placing (usually found at the far right bottom of the
board) but was afraid of disqualification for having trace levels of
Rogaine.
C: ANNUAL
AUTOPSY REPORT
This extensive report is on hold because of too
many cases to present in a short period of time. This is a subject all
by itself.
D: EPILOGUE
Richard Benyo was in the audience taking
extensive notes for new ideas for, “Marathon and Beyond.” I
wanted everyone in the room to consider a new concept for ultrarunning
and ultramarathons. I have been looking for long distance races with
extended cut off times such as when the same race starts the next
year. One could go back on the course during the year and fill in the
previously missed segments and then turn their final time in to the race
director, even if it was in weeks and months. The other concept
important to me is inframarathoning and the inframarathon. This
would be a race short of a marathon and could even be a 100-yard dash
but with at least three aid stations along the way. I can
see a new publication in the offing, “ Marathon and Less.”
PART II
BADWATER
2003
ULTRAMARATHON: THE RACE
“It
Was 135 at the Badwater 135”
The alarm was set for 0400 on Tuesday 07-22-2003.
My feet were pre taped two days earlier by Denise so that saved a lot of
time. All I had to do was get on my solar protection gear along with the
bright yellow and green John Deere tractor suspenders and insert my
Louis Skolnik Pocket Protector with the rectal thermometer. As I turned
over my wallet, money, credit cards, cell phone, and pager to Denise I
thought to myself that for once I didn’t need these material things and
that they wouldn’t do any good here anyway. It was a great feeling. I
was turning myself over to my wife and crew and to the environment.
I had a bagel and some juice and then started
drinking water and Gatorade like mad as we headed for Badwater at around
0500. It was great as we visited and gathered for the
voluntary/obligatory photo shoots. Several official looking people
singled me out for pictures and interviews, which pleased me. I had
stuck my head out to be the first 70-year old to be in the Badwater
Ultramarathon. I headed for my office to make a last minute deposit and
make sure no misspelled graffiti had been added to the walls. Recent
paving obliterated the start-line and so the official distance might
eventually be challenged (especially for those using this event as a
Boston qualifier). There had not been enough time to wheel the course in
reverse to establish the accurate 135-mile distance. This might be one
of those asterisk (*) years I thought to myself.
Adam Bookspan played the Star Spangled Banner on
his trumpet and it was inspirational. Chris Kostman did a countdown
using his radio-controlled clock for an accurate 0600-start.
Several runners streaked out (I refused to be the
rabbit) as Ken Eielson and I shuffled off. A little while later I
found that I had worked my way into last place. My crew leap-frogged
ahead a mile-at-a-time and made sure I was properly fueled. I peed every
15 minutes for many hours thereafter. (In 1994 I was under hydrated and
faced the danger of renal shutdown and rhabdomyolysis and had to drop at
41 miles).
The CBS crew headed by Linda Alvarez
and the camera girl visited me several times for a few minutes in the
first ten miles. I really liked them. I didn’t have the heart to tell
them I was practicing to be on the David Letterman Show. Near
Mushroom Rock at 12 miles I looked out over the salt flats where two
separate motor vehicle accidents had taken place with one death each
occurring last summer requiring my services. I also looked west to the
foot of Telescope Peak where a Swiss professor had tried to climb up to
the top of Telescope Peak and back down to the Valley floor. He made it
back almost to his vehicle and was found dead after having been reported
missing. This was during the Race in 2002.
The southbound 0800-starters began to pass by and
we all exchanged friendly and encouraging waves. This was repeated two
hours later with the 1000-starters. After being on the road about four
hours I felt a shock wave behind me. Then something like a Doppler
effect took place. It was the first 0800-starter, Blade Norman,
known for his strict adherence to rules. He streaked by as if he were on
his way to a surfing contest. I cautioned him about his speed and lack
of clothing as I was buffeted in his vortices and wind shear. A few
others passed me from the 0800-start before I got to Furnace Creek (FC).
The time station at FC registered my time there in
5:38 so I had done a 20-minute-per-mile pace up to that point. The shade
of a palm tree was inviting for a brief cool down. I decided not to rest
in the irrigation ditch at the date palm orchard this year. At the
Harmony Borax works I looked west to see if the Central Asians were
practicing with their crop dusters over the borate flats. It was hard to
tell anything through the mirage and through the cataracts. At around 20
miles the 1000-start runners started to pass. It was hard to tell the
0800 from the 1000-starters as I did not unfurl the roster for
reference. I recognized Rudy Afanador and shouted him words of
encouragement. Later Pam Reed approached and I am proud to have
been side-by-side with her for a few nanoseconds. I have a picture
proving it.
Between the marathon mark and the 50K mark I
noticed that I needed five-to-ten minute rests between the miles covered
and that I was only averaging 30-minute miles. Gary Morris
strolled with me for a mile and it was inspirational to have him at my
side especially after the Memorial weekend incident. The day before he
presented me with his “Death Valley Discovery” manuscript, which
I cherish. He has the concept that this Race is against the environment
and not against each other. Mentally I was dreading the “hill”
between the sea level signs before rounding the turn to Stovepipe Wells
(SPW) 31 to 35 miles. It is now being called “The Death Zone” for
striking down participants.
It was as hot as I had ever been in my 40 years of
going to Death Valley. Kari Marchant informed me that her van sensor
reached 135 degrees. Besides that, the humidity was
relatively high at probably 25%. So the heat index figured
into the situation. [After the Race, Jay Anderson reported 139!]. I had
heard that employees at SPW were sweltering and one had to be evacuated
to the hospital for IV’s. Runners and crewmembers were being shuttled to
rooms (MASH Units) at SPW for medical and paramedic evaluations
and for IV’s. Forty percent of the responses were for crewmembers.
As I was being “put down” in the van, I felt
as if I were about to undergo anesthesia either for electroshock therapy
or for an operation. I thought I was still rational and also felt that
my body temperature was up. Usually I don’t tolerate a slight
fever, when I am “normal” and am often at 96 degrees. The sun was behind
the clouds by then but that didn’t seem to help. I put in a request to
be taken from the 35-mile mark to SPW to have my temperature taken. (The
rectal thermometer had exploded in my pocket protector earlier). The
reading was 101 plus. I began imagining angels were coming to my
rescue and that I was at the Garden of Gethsemane. Mary Magdalene
was there too. An Igloo ice chest turned into a sarcophagus. Next it
seemed as if I were being prepared for embalming. I was wrapped in cold
towels and packed with ice bags. A picture taken when reviewed later
made it seem as if I were being wrapped in the Shroud of Turin.
When I came to, I looked for my imprint on the shroud but had
trouble seeing it through the cataracts. The shroud is being saved for
carbon dating in case the Messiah thing comes up. After my temperature
dropped to 98.1, I asked to be dumped back on the course at the Scotty’s
Castle turnoff (Yogi Berra’s fork in the road). I lasted two more miles.
Several weeks earlier I did a coroner’s autopsy on
a 79-year old tourist who had dropped dead between the Devil’s Cornfield
and the SPW dunes when it was 115 degrees. I am the only autopsy surgeon
in Inyo and Mono Counties and decided that I didn’t want to do an
autopsy on myself. I was afraid I would wake up while making the
“Y-shaped” incision. I did notice that I had cadaver legs at that point.
I pulled myself at 37 miles and 17 hours. I had gone a forth of the way
in a third of the time. I could tell that other runners were going down
for the count. I had no idea what was going on ahead or behind me.
Needless to say, I was disappointed at withdrawing
from the Race. It was a voluntary decision. I looked at the list later
of those who dnf’d and feel that I am in good company. There were 26 of
us out of 73 starters. I am amazed at the performances of those who
continued and finished especially in buckle-time. All but one woman
finished.
A lot of things went through my mind during the
Race and in the days afterwards.
01) I decided to follow full disclosure strategy #3 (death therapy) and
figure out the many ways I could stay alive. The main way was to
withdraw.
02) It was hotter than ever out
there. Kari Marchant’s van registered 135. I heard of a high of 139 (Jay
Anderson) and many van thermal sensors pegged out at 130 degrees. I am
not sure what the official reading will turn out to be but there were no
official devices at the “hill” above sea level between 31 and 35 miles.
My body temperature was over 101. Retiring and being ice-bagged could
cool me down but this was taking too much time and I still overheated.
The humidity was probably over 25% and the heat index was in effect. In
addition the winds started blasting later in the day. I did not put on
the inline skates and deploy the parasail but it was tempting.
03) I was hearing that long-time
employees at Stovepipe Wells (SPW) were suffering in the unusual heat
and one had to be hospitalized. The paramedics were busy giving IV’s to
runners and to crew members as well. One needed six liters. There was no
extra space at SPW for victims to be triaged.
04) Where I quit was at 37 miles
at the Devil’s Cornfield and SPW dunes. This is where a 79-year old
tourist dropped dead three weeks ago of heat stroke when the temperature
was 115. I did the coroner’s autopsy on him. I always learn a lesson
from every case. I also had cadaver legs by then. They seemed like
spindles. All of the subcutaneous tissues had disappeared which
impressed me.
05) I probably was having
hallucinations or some kind of dream state. When I would lie down voices
would become distant. As I was being iced and rubbed down I felt as if I
were being prepared for electroshock therapy, some kind of operation, or
even embalming. It was déjà vu all over again. I was at the Garden of
Gethsemene, angels were floating around, and I thought I saw Mary
Magdalene (names and places altered to protect the innocent).
06) As I was being cooled down I
had a vision of being wrapped in the Shroud of Turin. There is a picture
documenting this (I think). One of the Igloo ice chests turned into a
sarcophagus as another choice. I later looked at the shroud and thought
I saw my imprint on it. I saved the shroud for carbon dating in case the
Messiah thing comes up
07) I saw a case of soda explode
when it slipped out of the back of a van.
08) The gel capsules were melting
in the containers and were fusing to each other.
09) I ate a bite of tainted
turkey sandwich earlier. When I gagged on some fused capsules I threw up
and felt much better. This performance induced vomiting for one of the
crewmembers.
10) Later in my race, I noticed
that the puddle of urine on the ground was not very large even though I
thought I was peeing a fairly large amount. Later I discovered why.
11) Large swaths of yellow
crystals caked the insides of my solar protective pants. I did also not
like the brown skid marks, which were accumulating, inside my underwear.
When putting underwear back on I recalled the old saying. “Yellow in
front and brown in back.”
12)
I heard that Uday and Qusay had gotten rubbed out in an overkill
operation and I became interested in reviewing the autopsy report and
photos provided to the world.
13)
Ice was running out and many had to drive about 100 miles
either to Beatty, Trona, or Lone Pine to replenish supplies.
Most
of the above reasons are serious and some are obviously facetious
confused by fact and fantasy.
PART III
POST
RACE ACTIVITIES
“Now the Fun Starts”
I would like at this time to again thank my wife
for helping me get trough the Races from Badwater to the top of Whitney
in 1991, 1992 and 1993. Without her I would not have had those successes
in the earlier years. I now have a 50% success rate with failures in
1994, 1996 and now this year. I am not unhappy this year as I felt I
gave it my best while under intense scrutiny but I know I let a lot of
people down by not finishing. I thank my crew:
01) Denise Jones, Badwater
veteran, First Lady of Badwater, and Blister Queen
02) Dave Thorpe, Badwater
veteran, who has been with me every year.
03) Katie Rose Thorpe, Dave’s
daughter, age 19, who helped me also in the earlier years.
04) John Rosmus, Badwater veteran
05) Rick Nawrocki, Badwater
veteran and cancer survivor
06) Brian Troupin, son of my
neuropsychiatrist, and insomniac and night driver.
My team heard an echo emanating from the
sarcophagus. Someone took the lid off and I climbed out on Wednesday
morning 07-23-2003. The seven of us stumbled over each other in our room
at SPW for a while. I staggered outside into a frenzy of swarming
locust. It was like a pestilence. (The bugs were actually dragonflies).
Besides that the sky seemed ominous with black clouds and threatening
rain and thundershowers. It seemed as if Armageddon were about to happen
or had already happened. We decided to pull out and cruise the course in
our three different vehicles. As I went up to Towne Pass the first one I
saw was Jay Birmingham. I was really pleased to have met him after all
of these years and was happy to see him still in the Race. There were at
least twenty runners between there and Panamint Springs Resort (PSR). I
would have loved to be in their midst.
At Panamint we congratulated all of those who had
made it that far and were about to proceed. I had a chance to more
formally meet some of the crewmembers. Denise went to various rooms to
examine and patch up some feet and get them going again. We proceeded
westward seeing those brave souls trudging and some even running up the
west Panamint grade. At Padre Crowley I bumped into Chris Frost and his
three vehicles. I visited with him briefly the day before at around 30
miles where he informed me that he was feeling great and was two hours
ahead of last year. This was rather demoralizing to me at the time but I
was really happy for him irregardless. He was on the cell phone with his
office in Malibu probably clinching some real estate deals.
The Darwin time station race data was interesting
as it was being timed on Darwin-time, which is twelve hours different
from the rest of he west coast. I tried to do some interpolating and
extrapolating to figure things out so I could present realistic data to
the webcast room at the Dow Villa in Lone Pine.
Many other runners were between Darwin and Lone
Pine as I went by. It was great seeing how well the lead runners were
doing after 24+ hours. Monica Scholz and Chris Bergland looked good at
Keeler and Dolomite respectively. Pam Reed and Dean Karnazes were on the
Portal Road and looked awesome. I was proud to be at the finish line
when they arrived.
Later in the day (Wednesday – day #2) I doubled
back out on the course and checked on the middle-of-the-pack runners. By
then the sky exhibited one of the prettiest sunsets I have witnessed in
Owens Valley and the Sierra. I thanked the Lone Pine Chamber of Commerce
for this wonderful display to which was added rain showers and colorful
clouds. In the meantime Denise was still checking on feet and Dave and
Katie were delivering Popsicles and distributing our leftover ice. We
all praised their efforts and encouraged them on.
Early the next morning (Thursday - Day #3) I headed
back out on the course to the back-of-the-pack runners. It seemed as if
some would not get to the Portals within the 60-hour cutoff. Fortunately
I was wrong and was very impressed with their fortitude. We all did the
same things as before. Rick Nawrocki paced Ken Eielson who had paced him
the year before. John Rosmus got our rented van spic and span and ready
for return to the rental place in Bishop and then he had to depart for
home.
Later in the day we all went back to the Portals to
witness many more finishes, which were all dramatic. Going back down the
Portal Road I informed the final runners how much further they had to go
and how many minutes-per-mile had to be done according to my pace chart
in order to break 60 hours. I think most of them appreciated these
facts.
The multipurpose room at the Lo-Inyo School in Lone
Pine was packed for the dinner and awards ceremony. Denise and I were
proud to be on the same stage with Pam Reed, Dean Karnazes, Jay
Birmingham, and Gary Morris. Each was presented with a petroglyph
representing life in the area before the white man.
The next morning we had a nice breakfast at Seasons
Restaurant provided by Jeff and Trina Tropple who are great supporters
of the Badwater Ultramarathon.
Things really got quiet the next few days as the
stragglers dropped by to bid farewell until next year. We always enjoy
Marshall Ulrich and his performances on the course. I met his new wife,
Heather, for the first time and she is a charming person. Art Webb told
us about his segmental approach to the course this year. Adam Bookspan,
along with David and Curt, has some secret plans for assaulting the
desert again.
Many emails have been coming in about the Race. I
am still in the process of reviewing all of the pictures on the website.
Now I am looking forward to the CBS coverage and the David Letterman
Show even though I was not invited.
My rectal thermometer exploded near the Beatty
turnoff. I still have some unused garlic suppositories for those
interested. The John Deere suspenders got a little stretched.
I would be interested in any astute observations
about my partially true and partially fictitious story. Please send any
comments but don’t let them lead to a recall for Mayor of Badwater or
I’ll fight like a Bengal tiger (Gray Davis quote for those out-of-state
people and foreigners). Any stories and/or pictures would be welcome.
Sincerely (sort of),
Ben Jones
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